2004 Crios de Susana Balbo Syrah Bonarda - $17.00

September 23, 2006

Background: This interesting mixture of Syrah (50%) and Bonarda (50%) is produced by Dominio Del Plata in Mendoza, Argentina. The purveyor of Dominio Del Plata, Susana Balbo, developed the "Crios" or "offspring" label to showcase lower tannin wines that are meant to be enjoyed immediately. These young wines will not benefit from long term cellaring. This wine is unfined and unfiltered.

I'm sure you've heard of Syrah, but most people have not experienced wines produced from the Bonarda grape. Bonarda is actually the most widely planted varietal in Argentina, not Malbec. Bonarda was brought to Argentina in the 19th century by Italian immigrants. Wines produced from Bonarda are inky, full-bodied wines with mild tannins and lots of black fruit flavors.       

My Tasting Notes: This "Jekyll and Hyde" wine was delightfully confusing. At first the nose was musty and earthy, no doubt the Bonarda, but then sharp hints of spice from the Syrah appeared. The color is a deep dark purple, almost black. Full-bodied with very long legs. Mild tannins with lots of black fruit flavor, but occasionally overshadowed by heavy spiciness that hits you in the face and then dissipates. This is the first wine I've enjoyed that has a black synthetic cork. I found the cork to be very sophisticated looking with the combination of black cork with white lettering. The cork also happened to match the color of the wine.

The Meal: Well-done porterhouse steak, steamed broccoli, and rice pilaf. The wine was a very good match for the grilled steak. Just enough tannins to cut through the richness of the steak without completely overpowering the flavor of the meat. The spice from the Syrah was a nice complement to the Emeril Lagasse steak rub I use.

My Score: 87

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